We made it to PE (as the locals call it) and began the process of searching for a place to stay for the last two nights. We have been very lucky in the past as we found great accomodation easily and usually for a great price. This being winter in South Africa doesn't attract a huge tourist base. I can't imagine being here in the summer time though since it gets unbearably hot and humid. With only one day's exception, we've had excellent weather. It can get cold once the sun sets though.
We began the process of looking for a hotel and started inquiring along the beachfront avenue. The first three places we tried we sold out because there is a big rugby match tomorrow. We found a few places that had space but most were dodgy. Finally we found a nice place on the oceanfront with a two bedroom place and an oceanview. It was the last room at this place. And it was not too expensive, about R1000 per night divided by three. (The Rand, when used to designated currency, is denoted as an "R" before the amount as $ is for dollar.)
Our hotel in Port Elizabeth.
The view of the ocean from our balcony.
Once settled we got back into the car and went to the old city center. Out of all the cities I've seen on this trip, PE is the most blightful yet. Perhaps with the overcast sky it made the mood even worse but all the buildings are decrepid, paint flaking away, people just hanging out on the corners. Even the catholic church in the middle of the area had alarms installed in case someone approached the front of the church or another area that had anything removable. Johann told us that the CBDs (central business districts) of all South African cities are awful places to be and the government has been trying to change that. The only city with a thriving CBD is Cape Town.
Part of our walking tour included Donkin Reserve, a park named for an important government figure in the 1800s. His young wife Elizabeth died from a fever and he renamed the city in her honor. In the guide book we've been using, it describes Donkin street and the row houses along one side. They were declared a National Treasure in the 80s. I was saddened to see what shape they were in. They haven't seen a coat of paint or a nail to fix a broken step probably since they were declared a monument. We found the house pictured in the guide book though it took some work to figure it out. The book isn't very old but the picture must be because it didn't look at all like the real house.
Donkin Street with the "historic" row houses.
Donkin Reserve.
On the way back to the car, we stopped off at a hotel near the park for a beer. The hotel had the appearance of a grand place in its time: beautiful marble floors, handcrafted woodwork, terraced atrium. But like everything else in the city, its heyday is long gone. With some TLC it could be restored to its original beauty if only the surrouding area could support it.
So we sat at the bar and had two beers and finally had conversation, though a bit strained at first. Next we went back to the hotel after stopping at a bottle shop on the way home. Forbes went to the craft market across the road and Johann went to meet another former student of his who lives now in PE. I stayed home and had another beer. After a bit Johann showed up with his friend Adrian who is 25 years old and working as a civil engineer here. He's a handsome lad and somewhat soft-spoken though that may have been partly because he was unsure of his English skills being Africaaner.
The four of us sat on the balcony watching the sun go down, drinking, and chatting. I think events from the previous night faded quickly as the beer and brandy (for the South Africans) flowed. None if us had eaten since breakfast in Knysna but we kept it going like champs. Finally at 9pm, we decided we needed to head to the casino just down the road so we walked there. I was the only one who had played blackjack before and the rest were excited to try it so we plopped down at the R25 table. There are no free drinks, even when you're playing. It was awful. So we had to buy them.
The blackjack table was slightly different than the ones I'm used to. A half-circle plastic disc is situated in front of each player presumably to catch the cards as they are dealt. There are five decks of cards in a machine that continuously shuffles them so after a round, the dealer places them back in the machine and they are reinserted into the five decks. This makes counting the cards impossible and gives the house better odds. Regardless, we were all doing well and winning though at first Forbes was only watching. He seemed to understand the basics so I gave him one R25 chip to have a go. He won right out of the shoot and even had three blackjacks. All with my guidance of course. I broke even after a tip to the dealer and Forbes, in true Scottish fashion, went to the table with nothing and left with R300.
It was time to call the evening to a close as it was nearing 11pm and we still hadn't eaten. Somehow I kept pace with Forbes and was in much better shape than he was. We left Johann and Adrian at the casino and started walking home. On the way, I saw a Speers burger joint, similar to Burger King, and knew if I didn't eat, tomorrow would be spent in bed. His Majesty had taken a diet pill and wasn't hungry so he waited outside while I got my order to go. And thank goodness he was there because the lamppost really needed to be held up and he was just the man to do it. I took him by his leash and led him home.
A passed out Forbes and a greasy burger after a night out, the ocean waves crashing outside the open patio doors, and some tv. Doesn't get any better. I stayed up for an hour pouring water down my throat and watching tv. Just as I was about to lie down, the other two banged on the door (even though I told them the key was at the front desk...retention isn't Johann's forte) so I let them in with pizzas from the Dros restaurant across the way. As they ripped into the yeast carcass, I bid goodnight and went to sleep. At 3am I heard footsteps and the door shut. Seems the boys went back to the casino and kept the party going. Adrian has to work tomorrow at 7am...it's going to be a long day for him.
